MY 2-MINUTE REVIEW ON MONTY'S

The Hits and Misses of Portland's Newest Italian-American Restaurant

Growing up on the East Coast with a mom from New Jersey, Italian-American food was a go-to for both dining out and cooking at home. I can still taste the herby, tomatoey red sauce my mom made for spaghetti and meatballs, and the buttery garlic bread that defined my childhood.

When Montelupo opened their third restaurant and first Italian-American spot, Monty’s, I was beyond excited. I’m obsessed with their first location, a Pastaria in Northeast Portland. The pasta there is on another level: simple, craveable, and, in my opinion, the best in the city.

When they opened a Focacceria last year and, more recently, Monty’s in Southeast Portland, I thought, "Finally, a Montelupo-like spot closer to home."

Monty’s is definitely the Portland take on an Italian-American joint and is honestly just okay. While they’ve nailed some basics, like large portions, they’ve missed the mark - at least, my mark - in other areas for a classic Italian-American experience.

Where They Missed the Mark

Under-Seasoned Food: For the love of salt… use it! I started with the meatballs and polenta appetizer and it had a rich, comforting texture but was bland. I then ordered the chicken parm as my main and while is was the right take on that type of dish it was - you guessed it - bland.

Vibes (or Lack Thereof): My favorite Italian-American restaurants always feel like I walk into a cozy home, because that’s the point of Italian American food and spaces—it should feel like you’re stepping into your grandmother’s kitchen. Warm, comforting, and brimming with flavor. The space has the potential to achieve this, but right now, it’s an industrial area that felt a bit stale and more like an art gallery.

*Note: I do love industrial spaces for restaurants just… not for an Italian-American one.

Where They Nailed It

Lighting: Can’t stress this enough—good lighting is EVERYTHING. Ask my partner, I spend more time making sure the lighting is constantly perfect in our home than almost any other activity I do.

Monty’s got this right, and honestly, that’s half the battle. The warm glow spread across the restaurant as night set in, and there was the ideal balance of mood and task lighting to see your food, menu, and market products, without feeling like there was a spotlight on you.

Menu Options: They’ve got enough variety to keep you entertained without overwhelming you - a win in the world of endless Italian menus.

*I’m currently replaying in my head the scene from Schitt’s Creek when the Rose family opens the never ending café menu for the first time, and they’re so massive they nearly take over the entire shot.

Tiramisu: Let’s be real: if the tiramisu is good, I’ll forgive a lot. And Monty’s was incredible. The mascarpone was perfectly light and airy, and the ladyfingers were beautifully soaked in the coffee liquor. I can’t ask for anything more.

Market: The market is stocked with everything you need to fill your pantry. I ended up spending as much here as I did on dinner, and honestly, I’m not mad about it. In fact, it got me really excited to cook with the delicious ingredients they have. Boujee pasta, elevated meats (I’ll definitely be back for the guanciale and pancetta), plus I can’t wait to try their coffee beans and jarred peaches I love but haven’t had since I was a kid.

Would I go back? Sure. Is it worth the visit overall? Absolutely. But I’ll be bringing my own pocket salt, which—surprise!—I can buy at the market.

Was busy chatting and forgot to take food photos, but here’s my leftovers from the next day.